01/08/2019 - Day 4 Choquequirao trek, Peru

Big lie in today, we didn’t have breakfast until 0800. We had pancake with chocolate sauce again, porridge, with some Andean cancha corn in it (like Andean popcorn) coffee and bread with butter and jam. We set off at 08:45, Alex told us to go on and that he would catch us up, so Josh and I started out alone. We came across a sad looking donkey all tangled up in his rope. We found the farmer and let him know, he didn’t seem too worried though, I guess it happens all the time! We went down the mountain, stopping at a little area called Santa Rosa for some water and a toilet stop. There were some tiny 1 month old puppies that belonged to the owner. The red flag was flying, symbolising it is a chicha market, so Alex bought some to share with the others at the campsite later on. We continued walking and got to the bridge across the river that we had crossed at the beginning of day 2. We sat in a small patch of shade for a gulp of water and a cereal bar, for some energy to do the next uphill bit in the sun, up to our camp for the day. Alex told us he had accidentally left all his snacks in Cusco, so we fed him up with our snacks throughout the week. Sharing the patch of shade was a Peruvian family that Alex got chatting to, who were doing our 5 day trek in about 2-3 days. They were all sharing sips from one bottle of water, with fleecy blankets and their equipment on hand. I can’t imagine doing this trek and having to carry and set up and cook all our own equipment and food, it would definitely be a different experience. Especially when the locals equipment is leather sandals, jeans and heavy jumpers, with no technology at all!

Alex told us the next uphill bit would take around 3 hours. It was the midday heat and we were about to embarque up the sunny side of the mountain. We took a deep breath and got going, zig-zagging up the Inca path. It was hot, sweaty and hard going, but we managed to do it in 50 minutes, a lot quicker than expected thankfully! I think as there was no respite from the sun anywhere, we just plodded on instead of taking frequent breaks. Having said that, our heads were pulsating when we arrived.

Rutless uphill hike in the midday sun

The wide brimmed geek hats we had bought ourselves in the Galapagos came in as ESSENTIALS, I never realised how much shade they provided and how cool they can help keep your head! We were camping in Chiquiska, the spot that we had lunch in on day 1. Josh and I decided to have our cold shower straight away, whilst we were boiling, to make it more bearable. The shower was outside and sheltered from the porters and chefs washing up just by a simple binbag tied to the side of the building! I definitely get the feeling that a naked body to these mountain people is just a body that means you can be physically able to do and go somewhere, and is not sexualised at all. It was cold, but it was the most satisfying shower of the trek! We had a very Andean lunch, vegetable and pasta soup, quinoa (they have in abundance and is dirt cheap here, they find it funny this is such a trend food at home!) mashed Andean pumpkin mixed with potato and cheese (I think it might be called Locro but not sure), chips and some passion fruit squash. We fell asleep on the green in the shade after lunch, and when we woke up our tent had already been put up. We tried to teach Alex Monopoly deal but it was hard to explain with a language barrier, plus he and Thomas and Diamon had been drinking Chicha since they had arrived at the camp, so he was a bit merry! There were loads of mosquitos so Josh and I got into the tent until dinner was ready. We had popcorn and pastries again before dinner of vegetable soup, rice and peas, chicken, yucca, potato, cucumber, and shredded red cabbage.

We brushed our teeth and played Monopoly deal in the tent before tucking up to a podcast, ready for an early start tomorrow.