18/05/2019 – Exploring Medellin, Colombia

We slept pretty well, it was a cooler so more comfortable night than those in Palomino, but still too warm for a sheet. We got up for the hostel breakfast, pancakes today and unlimited coffee! Kate would have been happy! Then we moved to the lounge area to do some planning. Josh planned for the day ahead and I tried to plan a vague route and time frame for the next week or so traveling South through Colombia. We extended our stay in this hostel and then got ready to go out.

Breakfast + unlimited coffee!

Planning for our trip.

We had a quick video call with dad as it is his birthday today! He is celebrating in Ireland with the family for Amelia’s first communion. Just as we were leaving the door Josh received a video call from Sargie, so we had a brief catch up with he and Matty. They had heard of Medellin from the Netflix show ‘Narcos’ about Pablo Escabar. Josh and I must watch it! We left the hostel and walked for about 15 minutes to a metro station. On the way we were approached by an elderly man, I took a step back as usually this starts a conversation that leads to asking for money, but he put his hands up and said ‘no no’ then went on to ask us where we were from and pointing at our eyes and hair. There really is no chance of fitting in in Latin America, although it was all very friendly and he kept saying bonita (pretty) at us both! It is not unusual to feel stared or glared at when we walk down the street, but it doesn’t feel threatening, it just seems out of curiosity, and maybe we would do it if it was the other way round?!

The metro system is the only one in Colombia, and was pivotal in developing marginalised, poorer areas of the city. Before the system was developed some of the favelas built up into the mountain had very difficult access to many basic needs like hospitals, education and even basic groceries. The city is very proud of it! We managed to get our tickets and then went across the city and up in the cable car, which is a cheap and genuine mode of transport for the local people living in the townships below. We got in a cabin with three other ladies (we decided they looked like safe companions) and went up over the mountain above the favelas, with a view across the city. It was pretty eye-opening, buildings built on top of buildings up the side of the mountain. Lots and lots of stairs, difficult for buggys or wheelchairs or the elderly I imagine. I guess it would keep you fit though! Brick, wood, corregated metal, whatever was available. Lots of laundry drying on the flat rooves. Lots of kids playing on the flat rooves (with no barriers or walls!) We did a round trip without getting out as we had read it is the safest way to do it.  We hopped back on the metro to the ‘Universidad’ station and found a nearby foodcourt where we had some lunch. We went to the restaurant that seemed popular with the locals (it looked the same as everywhere else to us but was definitely a popular one!) for the classic Colombian bandeja dish (rice, beans, plaintain, chicken, avocado, salad, arepa, cup of juice) £2, absolute steal. Seems like a sturdy cheap meal, we were saying it would be so good if that meal was available that cheap for families in poverty back at home, then they might not have to eat beige fried fast food. Still, I guess all things are relative and what is cheap to us is less cheap to the locals. We were served by some lovely people who seemed to appreciate us trying to speak in Spanish, they spoke nice and slowly for us! Josh chose the pineapple juice and when it came to me I chose the white liquid named ‘claro’. The man at the counter seemed surprised so questioned my choice, so I laughed and shrugged and said I don’t know what it is but I might as well try it! He still didn’t seem sure so he kindly poured me a little taster… he laughed at my reaction, and I laughed at Josh’s when I got him to taste it after me! According to google (must be true then!) this drink is called Mazamorra – a mixture of maize, water and milk and served alongside panela (hardened sugar cake) and there is debate as to whether it is a drink or dessert! Anyway, whatever it is, it is not to my (or Josh’s) taste! I went with pineapple. We all laughed! Then a kind lady moved over to share her table with us as it was pretty busy.  The food went down a treat. Oh the plaintain is soooo good! And the avocados are so ripe.

It was a little grey outside so we moved along a few doors to a café and had an Americano. A bit brighter outside and feeling more lively again, we found the botanical garden. Josh was excited for the butterfly house but sadly it was closed for maintenance. I think he wanted to get some nice pictures as we have seen some beautiful brightly coloured ones floating around in the wild but it is a bit tricky to get a nice photo of them. We wandered through a jungle area, a desert area, a palm area, the herb garden. The palm leaves are absolutely huge! It is a wonderful space and is completely free so there were many people having picnics and enjoying the lush greenery. I absolutely love all the foliage! After a couple of hours of getting blissfully lost we found the exit again and got on the metro back to our stop, ‘Prado’.

Picnic for lunch anyone?

Getting lost in the foliage.

We walked up the road and to a supermarket near our hostel for some bits for dinner before getting into our hostel (Medallo Social Hostal) and collapsing onto our bed in peace for an hour; emails, social media, chill time. Then we made some dinner in the hostel kitchen (tuna, mayo, sweetcorn, pasta) before going to our room to book some hostels for the week ahead. We got a bit more sorted and Josh edited some photos and I wrote this. Then showers - good power and warm water, very refreshing!